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Dry-Curing Virginia Style HamAuthors: Paul P. Graham, Extension Specialist, Department of Food Science and Technology, Virginia Tech; N. G. Marriott, Extension Specialist, Department of Food Science and Technology, Virginia Tech; R. F. Kelly, Retired Professor, Department of Food Science and Technology, Virginia Tech Publication Number 458-223, August, 1998 Historical BackgroundVirginia ham was one of the first agricultural products exported from North America. The Reverend Mr. Andrew Burnaby enthusiastically reported that Virginia pork was superior in flavor to any in the world.1 Another early clergyman, the Reverend Mr. John Clayton, wrote the Royal Society in England that Virginia ham was as good as any in Westphalia.2 Today, after more than three centuries of progress, Virginia ham is still considered a superb product because of its distinctive savory taste. For those who want to "do-it-yourself" cure and age a ham that will recapture the delightful flavor so highly cherished by these early clergymen, certain rules must be followed. This publication provides basic steps that can be applied to home curing or commercial operations.
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Start With a Good HamA high quality cured ham requires that you start with the proper type and a high quality fresh ham. Such fresh hams come from young, healthy, fast-growing hogs with a desirable lean-to-fat ratio. Fresh hams can be purchased from a retail store or a local meat packer who is under constant inspection by the USDA or the Virginia State Meat Inspection Service. This practice ensures that the meat product comes from a healthy hog. Hams for curing should have a long thick cushion (Figure 1), a deep and wide butt face, minimal seam and external fat as seen on the collar (Figure 1) and alongside the butt face (How to Identify a Quality Fresh Ham) and weigh less than 24 pounds. Heavier hams are normally fatter and are more likely to spoil before the cure adjuncts penetrate to prevent deterioration. Therefore, one's capability to control temperature and relative humidity determines the type of ham to cure. Return to Table of Contents
Keep the Hams Properly ChilledProper procedures prior to the purchase of a fresh ham such as chilling the carcass to below 40° F before it is cut and maintaining this temperature until the time of purchase assure a sound product. Continued temperature control of 36° - 40° F during curing is essential for a good finished product. Return to Table of Contents
Cure ApplicationThe cure mix to use depends upon personal preference. Salt alone is acceptable. However, the dry sugar cure is preferred by most people. For each 100 lbs. of fresh meat, use:
2 pounds sugar 2 ounces of saltpeter* Mix these ingredients thoroughly and divide into 2 equal parts. Apply the first half on day 1, and the second portion on day 7 of the curing period. Rub the curing mixture into all lean surfaces (Figure 1) of the ham. Cover the skin and fat, but little will be absorbed through these surfaces. *Obtainable from a drug store. Return to Table of Contents
Cure the Proper Length of TimeVirginia style hams should be cured 7 days per inch of cushion depth (Figure 3A - How to Identify a Quality Fresh Ham), or 11/2 days per pound of ham. Keep accurate records of placing hams in cure. Also, write the date to remove hams from cure on the calendar as shown. Early December is the best time to start curing Virginia style hams under ambient conditions. During the curing period, keep hams at a temperature of 36° - 40°F. Return to Table of Contents
After Curing - Soak and WashWhen the curing period has passed, the hams should be placed in a tub of clean, cold water for 1 hour. This will dissolve most of the surface curing mix and make the meat receptive to smoke. After soaking, scrub the ham with a stiff bristle brush and allow it to dry. Return to Table of Contents
Cure EqualizationAfter cure removal by washing, the cured product should be stored in a 50-60°F environment for approximately 14 days to permit the cure adjuncts to be distributed evenly throughout the ham. The product will shrink approximately 8-10% during cure application and equalization. In Southeastern Virginia, most hams are smoked to accelerate drying and to give added flavor. The Smithfield ham is smoked for a long time at a low temperature (under 90°F). Wood from hardwood species of trees (trees that shed their leaves in the fall) should be used to produce the smoke. Hickory is the most popular, but apple, plum, peach, oak, maple, beech, ash, or cherry may be used. Pine, cedar, spruce, and other "needle leaf" trees are not to be used for smoking meat since they give off a resin which has a bitter taste and odor. The fire should be a "cool" smoldering type which produces dense smoke. The temperature of the smokehouse should be kept below 90°F. Hams should be hung in a smokehouse* so that they do not touch each other. They should be smoked until becoming chestnut brown in color, which may take 1-3 days. Non-smoked Procedure - In Southwest Virginia, the process is to rub 100 lbs. of hams after cure equalization with the following thoroughly mixed ingredients.
1 quart molasses 1 pound of brown sugar 1 ounce of saltpeter 1 ounce of cayenne pepper Then bag the hams as shown in Figures 5-7.
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Age the Hams for 45-180 DaysThe aging period is the time that the characteristic flavor is developed. It may be compared to the aging of fine wines or cheeses. Age hams for 45-180 days at 75-95°F and a relative humidity of 55-65%. Use an exhaust fan controlled by a humidistat to limit mold growth and prevent excessive drying. Air circulation is needed, particularly during the first 7-10 days of aging, to dry the ham surface. Approximately 8-12% of the initial weight is lost. Cured meat is a good source of food for pests that infest dry-cured meats. The insects attracted to cured meat are the cheese skipper, larder beetle, and red-legged ham beetle. Mites, which are not insects, also may infest cured meats.
Insect illustrations were modified from Home and Garden Bulletin No. 109, U.S. Department of Agriculture, Washington, D.C. Recommended prevention includes starting the curing and aging during cold weather when these insects are inactive. Proper cleaning of the aging and storage areas is essential since the cheese skipper feeds and breeds on grease and tiny scraps of meat lodged in cracks. Cracks should be sealed with putty or plastic wood after cleaning. Screens should be installed to prevent entrance - especially of flies, ants and other insects that carry mites. Double entry doors are recommended to reduce infestation of insects. After cleaning and sealing cracks, a surface spray should be applied to the floor so that the thin layer of insecticide will kill crawling insects. Spray aging rooms once every three months with a pyrethrin spray to reduce infestation. FOLLOW MIXING AND APPLICATION DIRECTIONS ON THE PESTICIDE LABEL. Synergized pyrethrins may be applied with a paint brush if the room is stocked with meat. If applied as a spray, remove all meat products from the storeroom before spraying all surfaces on which houseflies and other pests are likely to crawl. Allow the spray to dry before any meat is returned to the store room. If any product becomes infested after precautions have been taken, it should be removed from the storeroom and the infested area should be trimmed. The trim should be deep enough to remove larvae that have penetrated along the bone and through the fat. The uninfested portion is safe to eat, but should be prepared and consumed promptly. The exposed lean of the trimmed areas should be protected by greasing it with salad oil or melted fat to delay molding or drying. Protect the hams by placing a barrier between the meat and the insects. Heavy brown grocery bags with no rips or tears in them are ideal to use for this purpose. As shown in Figures 5-7, place the ham in a bag and fold and tie the top. Then, place the bagged ham in a second bag, fold and tie as shown. The hams wrapped by this method can be hung in a dry, cool, protected room to age. This room should be clean, tight, and well ventilated. Return to Table of Contents
Preparing the HamVirginia ham remains one of the favorite foods of Virginians and their guests. It can be prepared in a variety of ways and served with endless combinations of foods which complement ham. The traditional 4-step method is to: (1) Wash ham with a stiff bristled brush, removing as much of the salt as possible. (2) Place the ham in a large container, cover with cold water, and allow it to stand 10-12 hours or overnight. (3) Lift the ham from the water and place it in a deep kettle with the skin side up and cover with fresh, cold water. (4) Cover the kettle, heat to a boil, but reduce heat as soon as the water boils. Simmer 20 to 25 minutes per pound until done. Another method of cooking is to soak, scrub, and place the ham in a covered roaster, fat side up. Then, pour 2 inches of water into the roaster and place it in a 325°F oven. Cook approximately 20 to 25 minutes per pound. Baste frequently. Cook to an internal temperature of 155°F as indicated by a meat thermometer placed in the thickest position of the ham cushion. If you do not have a meat thermometer, test for doneness by moving the flat (pelvic) bone. It should move easily when ham is done. Lift ham from kettle. Remove skin. Sprinkle with brown sugar and/or bread crumbs and brown lightly in a 375°F oven, or use one of the suggested glazes. Orange Glaze: Mix 1 cup brown sugar, juice and grated rind of one orange, spread over fat surface. Bake until lightly browned in a 375°F oven. Garnish with orange slices. Mustard Glaze: Mix 1\4 cup brown sugar, 2 teaspoons prepared mustard, 2 tablespoons vinegar and 1 tablespoon water. Spread over fat surface and bake as directed above. Spice Glaze: Use 1 cup brown sugar and 1 cup juice from spiced peaches or crab apples. Bake as directed above. Garnish with the whole pickled fruit. Return to Table of Contents
Cooking Ham SlicesBaking: Place thick slice in covered casserole and bake in 325°F oven. Brown sugar and cloves, fruit juice, or mustard-seasoned milk may be used over the ham during baking. Uncover the last 15 to 20 minutes for browning. Broiling: Score fat edges and lay on broiler rack. Place 4 inches from broiler and broil for specified time, turning only once. Frying: Trim the skin off the ham slices. Cut the outer edge of fat in several places to prevent it from curling during cooking. Place a small amount of fat in a moderately hot skillet. When it has melted, add ham slices. Cook ham slowly, turning often. Allow about 10 minutes total cooking time for thin slices. Remove ham from pan and add a small amount of water to raise the drippings for red-eye gravy. To decrease the salty taste, fry ham with a small amount of water in the skillet. Return to Table of Contents
How to Carve a HamThe most delightful flavor of Virginia ham can be enjoyed from thin slices. Thus, a very sharp knife, preferably long and narrow, is needed. With the ham on a platter, dressed side up, make a cut perpendicular to the bone about 6 inches in from the end of the hock. Then follow the steps in figure 8. Return to Table of Contents
How to Bone Cooked HamThe ham is easier to slice when the bones are removed while the ham is warm.
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Recipes for Cooked Ham
Or make a ham salad filling by grinding cooked ham. Flavor with finely chopped celery, onion, and/or pickle. Moisten with mayonnaise or salad dressing. Scraps of cooked ham may be added to scrambled eggs for added flavor. Use the bone and meat adhering to it to flavor a pot of beans or split pea soup. HAM LOAF OR CROQUETTES
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Sliced ham
sandwiches made from Virginia ham are very tasty. Take your choice of breads and
extras, but be sure the ham flavor comes through. Ham biscuits are a special
treat. Serve thinly sliced ham in a crusty biscuit - large biscuits for family
meals; dainty ones for a tea table.
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